Consumer Buys for Needs, Function While Industry Sells by Category

Posted: September 17, 2014

Diagonal Reports believes that the beauty industry and the consumer are out of sync, reporting that consumers view beauty by functional need rather than by category. This finding is reported in its Lexicon of Beauty 2015-2025, which remaps the beauty industry according to function.

Consumers conceptualize beauty in terms of their needs. They always focus on the outcome, for example, to achieve a “younger” or a “fairer” skin and clean and/or manageable hair. The universal starting point for everyone is “me” and “my problem.”

This is quite a different lens to that used by formulators and brand or category managers. Beauty consumers are far less concerned with the “wrapping”—the category classification, the technology, the channel, the segment.

Dissatisfaction with the usefulness of traditional product categories goes back a long time. Research by Diagonal Reports shows that even in the late 1990s, consumers in the United States and Europe were increasingly focused on the function of hair and skin care products. That could not have developed into a popular movement without the internet and social media, which facilitated and accelerated this trend globally. Today, many millions of beauty consumers around the world are talking to each other using a different language or lexicon. This classification is outside the control of the industry, which still conceptualizes in terms of legacy categories.

The rewards for matching needs with products are great. A historical sweep of research reports shows a consistent trend: companies successfully enter the market by focusing on buyers’ problems. These small (but agile) players now account in aggregate for a significant share of sales. Crucially, many minnows are strategically positioned for future market expansion. The common market entry point is the uncommercialized and unbranded products/regimes that exist in the consumer but not the industry lexicon. Massage is the most striking example. It revolutionized skin care and represents a new mass treatment category, still largely unconsolidated. But massage was ignored for years because of the widespread (industry) observance of the square pegs and round holes rule.

Diagonal Reports has been compiling intelligence on consumers’ beauty regimes and practices worldwide for many years that did not otherwise fit in. In its report, it identifies the beauty behaviors that represent skin and hair care market opportunities. This lexicon is accessible by explaining different beauty needs, cultures and regimes.

Impact Colors Releases Color Trends 2016+

Posted: September 17, 2014

Impact Colors has released its color trends report for 2016 and beyond. The seventh annual Color Trends 2016+ highlights four distinct trends: Artland, Enchanted, Cosmos and Rendezvous.

The Color Trend 2016+ program consists of a  20-minute video presentation of ideas, concepts, and images followed by an intimate offering of 20 color proposals harmonized with each Color Trends theme.

The trend forecast was exclusively developed by the highly recognized market development expert Sunny Maffeo of Sunny Maffeo Partner, LLC. Maffeo specializes in color trend forecasting and special effects in the beauty, personal care, packaging, paper and coatings industries. Her long-range and global approach to color trends makes her truly innovative in global markets and multiple product categories.

 “We are very enthusiastic about sharing our vision of future trends with our clients,” said Doug Thornley, CEO of Impact Colors. “We have formulated an adventurous palette of 20 astonishing pigments and effects to compliment the trends that will capture the industry in 2016 and beyond. These products create a global expression of color and texture that will add excitement and exotic flair to our clients’ personal care formulations.”

Each of the four fables encapsulates lifestyle and design influences from across and beyond this world. Artland is inspired by the creative energy in urban environments where musicians, fashion designers, and artists express themselves in powerful ways. The color palette consists of soft nudes and blushes on the lips and cheeks juxtaposed with pops of bold contemporary chroma for eyes and nails. The Street Art look, with cheeky packaging in the form of a spray can, features umber lips, and colorfully graphic eyes. “Artland is the perfect trend for chromaholics who crave the energy of color,” said Maffeo. Brushed brows are emphasized. Lashes bring focus to eyes. In Artland, rogue is vogue. Face is canvas. Black, white, and strong colors appear with the confidence of quick bold strokes on a fresh sketch pad. The mood is ink and the packaging is inspired by the shelves at the art store.

With Enchanted, Impact Colors journeys to a magical meadow for looks that recreate the foliage and creatures of the forest. Fairies inspire a pink pixie look while in another interpretation, the greens and browns of the trees embolden the eyes. Peacock plumage coats the nails, and lips are nectar-stained. Silver and blue, also popular in this midnight palette, combine to produce a mysterious look—a new trend that promises adventure and enchantment.

Cosmos is just as it sounds—a theme that features effects of deep space, cosmic gases, and starlight with sparkly, futuristic greys and fierce carbon black. The trend is about displaying superhuman perfection with holographic eyes, shimmering lips, and sleek prismatic packaging that is out of this world. Much like the universe, the possibilities of this trend are infinite. Moon rocks and space punk add intensity. Eyes, lips, nails and lids—sleek and sensual, are dusted with carbon, a statement to minimalism.

The Rendezvous theme reflects the glitz and glamour of high society. Champagne and luxury town cars inspire gilded eyes. High-shine lacquer nails complete with jewel box packaging. “The look is all about status,” Maffeo said. “High profile reds combined with the extra special effect of shimmering gold makes the look pop and set a trend.” No palette is ever complete without an interpretation of those reds. They appear in Rendezvous as lux, high society classics that are Park Avenue perfect for eyes, lips, and nails that light up the room.

Market for Personalized Skin Care Continues to Show Potential

Posted: September 17, 2014

Personal skin care made in the lab to perfectly match each individual customer is predicted to become a big trend in skin care. In a new survey, Canadean investigates the market potential of personal skin care in the U.K.

Currently, Canadean values the global market for personalized skin care to be worth $12.2 billion. Many skin care brands have already responded by offering their consumers in-store skin consultancies to detect their skin type and match them with the right product. Now, the first movers in skin care are taking personalization to a new level when they offer a more scientific approach towards skin care with laboratory tests and individually labeled products.

U.K. consumers are ready for the laboratory approach to skin care, reports Canadean, and its new survey finds that many consumers are prepared to go far to find their personal skin cream match. In fact, 45% of U.K. adults say that they are interested in the laboratory approach to personal skin care, and many of these say that they are prepared to go to a specialized laboratory and would even prefer this compared to getting their personal product from other channels such as department stores or filling out online questionnaires. Of those interested in personalized care products, 54% say they are ready to provide blood, skin and hair samples to be tested in a laboratory, 51% would be interested in giving a DNA swab samples, and 52% would like to go to a medical dermatologist consultation.

Great Potential for the Beauty Industry

Preparing skin care products according to individual recipes takes time, and consumers will most likely have to wait to get their products made. According to the survey, consumers are prepared to wait for up to a month to receive their product, and 59% of consumers are also prepared to pay a premium for such products, indicating a great potential for the beauty industry.

“Over 22 % of skin care consumption by volume globally is driven by individualism,” says Veronika Zhupanova, analyst at Canadean. “And with the development of new technologies, manufacturers have opportunities to take it to a whole new level. Factors such as allergies, genetic predisposal, nutrition, climate and exposure to the sun are all individual needs perfect for tailoring.”

How Does It Work in Practice?

Related Topics: Skin Care (Segments)

2014 Sunscreen Innovation Act Unanimously Passes

Posted: September 18, 2014

The U.S. Senate unanimously passed the Sunscreen Innovation Act (S. 2141) on Sept. 17, 2014, which the Public Access to SunScreens (PASS) Coalition applauded. This passage follows the Senate Health, Education, Labor and Pensions (HELP) Committee’s approval of the bill earlier in the day.

According to PASS, the last over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen ingredient approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) was in the 1990s and since 2002, eight new sunscreen applications have been filed—and are still awaiting review, 12 years later. These technologies have been widely available in Europe, Asia, and Central and South America, in some cases for more than 15 years.

Over the past 40 years, melanoma rates have risen 800 percent among young women and 400 percent among young men. The bipartisan Sunscreen Innovation Act (H.R. 4250/S. 2141) would streamline the approval process for new sunscreen ingredients to ensure they receive a transparent review within a predictable timeframe, in turn ensuring the American public gains access to the latest safe, effective and innovative sunscreen products to protect against the sun’s most harmful rays.

“Congress’ commitment to addressing the skin cancer epidemic in the United States was clearly demonstrated in tonight’s Senate passage of the Sunscreen Innovation Act,” said Michael Werner, PASS Coalition Policy Advisor, in a press statement. “It’s a great day for Americans. Now U.S. consumers will be able to get the latest in sunscreen technology that has been available to citizens of countries all over the world.”

Werner added, “Americans have gone more than a decade without the kinds of innovative sunscreen products citizens in other countries have enjoyed for years. Meanwhile, skin cancer has become a public health crisis that has lead U.S. Surgeon General to issue ‘A Call to Action to Prevent Skin Cancer,’ calling for the government and stakeholders to act immediately to address this deadly, but preventable disease.”

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Report Reveals Personal Care Wipes to See Rapid Gains

Posted: September 17, 2014

A new study from The Freedonia Group, Inc., a Cleveland-based market research firm, reveals that U.S. demand for wipes (both consumer and industrial markets) is expected to expand 3.6% per year through 2018 to $2.9 billion. Improving economic conditions will support increasing demand, and increased consumer spending will promote the use of higher value, more task-specific wipes. “The market will continue to see ongoing introductions of new or innovative wipes, although the number of product introductions is expected to slow due to the large variety of wipes already available on the market,” says analyst Katherine Brink.

The consumer wipes segment accounts for the larger share of overall wipes demand. Overall consumer gains will be restrained by the sluggish pace of the dominant and mature baby wipes segment, which accounted for 78% of the consumer market volume sales in 2013. In contrast, products such as personal hygiene and pre-moistened facial cleansing wipes are expected to see rapid gains. Growth in these segments will be fueled by rising market penetration as consumers increasingly incorporate these products into their routines. Advances will also be driven by consumers who will return to more expensive, task-specific wipes after they downgraded during the recession-plagued 2008-2013 period.

Kline Introduces Report on the Sexual Wellness Market

Posted: September 17, 2014

According to Kline Company, there is a paradigm shift in attitudes in regards to personal intimacy and enhancement products Today, a number of marketers and retailers are embracing this movement and taking it mainstream, catering to the needs of a wide spectrum of consumers from college students to seniors. With a dynamic sexual wellness market afoot, Kline saw the need for accurate market research in this area, and launched its first comprehensive assessment of this fast growing and highly fragmented market: Sexual Wellness: U.S. Market Analysis and Opportunities.

Leading multinational consumer goods company Reckitt Benckiser has taken a front seat in the sexual wellbeing category following its acquisitions of Durex condoms in 2010 and K-Y personal lubricants in 2014. The Durex product lineup has since exploded to now offer an array of intimate lubricants, among other products.

No longer sold solely through specialty retailers or online, sexual wellness products can now be found in many drug stores and mass merchandisers. Chains such as CVS, Walgreens, and Target boast larger and more complete intimate health sections, which feature, among other products, lubricants.

“We believe that intimate well-being is an essential category that, although often burdened with some social stigmas, offers a lot of opportunities as well,” said Aurore Trepo, a spokesperson from Reckitt Benckiser.

Ingredient Launches: Fighting Underarm Odor, Improving Skin Texture and More

Posted: August 27, 2014

Greentech designed an active to fight underarm odor while maintaining skin microbiome homeostasis. Probiophyte Fresh inhibits the proliferation of the underarm bacteria Brevibacterium epidermidis from the genus Corynebacteria but respects proliferation of Staphylococcus epidermidis, a bacteria that produces bacteriocins essential to counteract pathogens. The active is recommended to improve the effectiveness of deodorant, foot sprays or lotions without compromising the epidermis. Additionally, the company launched a range of oily actives named the GreenSofts. These constitute a line of functional active ingredients that will offer solutions for several beauty categories. Through this venture, Greentech developed Soft Butters, GreenSofts that combine properties of Soft Butters with higher feel sensory and auto-emulsion capacities. The GreenSofts can be easily included into formulations such as cleansing creams, cream-oil body washes, in-shower body lotions and more to help offer a silky and soft touch formulation. They also can boost the biological activity. 

Symrise launched SymVital AR, a 100% pure and natural ginger root extract the works to improve skin texture and the smoothness of stressed skin, decreasing wrinkles and enhancing complexion regularity. It also helps to reduce signs of sun damages in less than two weeks. SymVital AR is suitable for all complexions and ages. It protects and improves skin smoothness, complexion regularity and homogeneity of the challenged and stressed skin, and its antioxidant and soothing activities provide skin-protecting and -caring properties. 

Impact Colors announced Nature XFol, a new line of Candelilla Beads Exfoliators created specifically to replace polyethylene microbeads. Candelilla wax is obtained from the candelilla plant, which grows wild in the desert in northern Mexico and southern Texas. After processing, the resulting candelilla wax is 100% natural, chemically stable, hard enough to exfoliate and yet easily moldable. The wax is a safe nonirritant for the skin and is even ingestible, which makes it an option for toothpaste. Additionally, the Nature XFol line is available in colors and special effects pigments, including white, yellow, red, blue and green. 

Under the name BergaCare SB Organic, Berg + Schmidt now offers a shea butter certified as “Organic/Bio” under the strict criteria of Ecocert Deutschland GmbH. This natural raw material’s high content of unsaponifiables gives it excellent moisturizing properties, and, due to its healing effects and excellent skin compatibility, shea butter is ideal for many beauty formulations, such as for baby care or dry skin care. 

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Related Topics: Ingredients